Friday, December 24, 2010

Halong Bay (3 day tour)

We are in the car on our way to Halong Bay. Anthony and I have spent the drive glued to the windows, watching the people and scenery pass by.

I've taken to spotting "motorcycle bubbas" Toddlers riding wedged between family members, they are often not big enough to see out from their little 'nest' and often are only noticed when a little hand reaches out from between two adults riding double. They look so cute rugged up against the wind and nestled down between mum and dad.


I also watch for the bicycles with cages housing 40-50 chickens or ducks on the back. What a sight! Off to the free range farm they go to cluck and strut free.... Right?

It's now 9pm - Aboard our Junk Boat

Oh to choose a highlight of today...

We start with the quiet, still beauty of Halong Bay as we putt-putt out to start our journey, add in an indulgent seafood lunch (crab, prawns, pippis, squid) and a few Tiger beers, and I'm pretty much comatose with relaxation on a sun lounge.


We meet our fellow passengers. A family from Chile (with cute kids Pedro & Sophia) and a family from USA Barbara & Charlie & their daughter Amelia. We also meet honeymooners Mark & Rachel from Hervey Bay Qld.



After lunch we ride the small boat to a Ti Top Island to climb the 400 odd steps to the pagoda at the top. After a mild heart explosion we make it up to the top & the amazing views.





We board the small boat again to visit the lagoon. After a ride into the lagoon on a paddle powered boat we climb back aboard the small boat which our captain motors over to a small beach. We watch as monkeys (Long Tail Monkeys that are native to the area) frolic in the trees and bushes. They move the whole mountainside of bushes with their antics. We watch as they drop down onto the beach and to much delight bring along a baby. Very cute! (THIS is the highlight of my day!)


After returning to the junk we join in on the cooking class - we learn to wrap spring rolls - which make up one course at dinner (and are delicious!)


Dinner is another seafood feast & a few more Tiger beers.

Squid fishing is on the agenda for after dinner but I've decided that the view from our bedroom window & the soft, comfy bed is much more inviting.

Also- Today we spotted 9 piglets, piled in a pyramid, on the back of a motorcycle. They must be off to the farm to see their friends the chickens & ducks....

Day Two:
Today I woke at 4am to the view of junks floating on glass-like water. The moon shimmered in the settling fog.


Breakfast was served at 7.30am - toast, eggs and cold meats. Anthony discovered the joys of coffee & condensed milk... He polished off 3 coffees!



After breakfast we boarded the small boat for the Surprising Cave. After wandering through the limestone caves we discovered a monkey climbing down the rockface. He was quite close and a small crowd gathered. It was great to see him so close up, until he grew cranky that no one would feed him and he spotted Pablo's bananas. Our guide called us back to the small boat, and we all moved rather quickly, cranky monkey close behind!


Next stop was the fishing village of Cua Van. The village children saw our junk arrive and quickly paddled out in small hungs to greet us with souvenirs. I couldn't say no to these cuties and bought a green beaded bracelet for VND50,000. My haggling skills are very poor to begin with, let alone when 3 little boys hold up a basket of pretty accessories asking "Madam, please...."!


We boarded hungs (the traditional row boat) to travel through the fishing village to the ecological museum, where we leant about the history of Halong Bay and it's people.

On the return trip, Rachel (a fellow teacher) and I are interested in the local school. We passed by the brightly colored building and heard from the guide that while the school is very close to the homes of the local children (the village of floating homes & boats lines the small bay) and there is a highly trained teacher on site, absenteeism is high. Fishing is the priority of the families and children are more likely to fish than attend school.


We returned to the junk and were greeted by three more children selling souvenirs (Two small girls, aged 8, 6 and a toddler). They posed for photos (VND10,000) and peered in our windows, showing me their colouring books. Our guide told us that while it is a Wednesday and the two older girls should have been at school they are here rowing from junk to junk selling shells and entertaining themselves playing on their little boat until the next junk arrives. I couldn't help it as I waved goodbye out my window I blew kisses back to them and called out "Go to school gorgeous girls".





After lunch we spent some time cruising around in the junk and then finished off the afternoon kayaking and swimming. After hearing Megan's stories of kayaking on Halong Bay, Anthony and I let the crowds paddle ahead and we floated in a quiet secluded area on "monkey watch". We float along taking in the colorful coral underneath us and watched the forest above us for the telltale movement of the monkeys as they move from tree to tree. We briefly caught a glimpse of some high up on the cliff.

When we arrived back at the junk. Anthony, Mark, Rachel and myself took turns jumping from the railings into the deep, green water (of course everyone jumped from the top & I jumped off the lowest level...). The water was cool but refreshing, and of course us Aussies are always keen for a swim.

More seafood feasting & beers for dinner... Hmmm we are getting used to this... and another early night.

Jess x


Day Three:

Today we cruised Halong Bay and visited a fish farm. We watched as other tourists bought fresh seafood (fish, shellfish, squid, mollusks) for their lunch.

After an early lunch it was time to check out & say our goodbyes to the lovely crew & fellow passengers.

Tonight: sleeper train to Hue.

Jess x









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